Swiss Textile Collection - a great undertaking and wonderful things to see

Last year, I was alerted to a TV news program here in Switzerland about a unique couture collection that had all belonged to the same woman, that had been bought up in bulk by Rosmarie Amacher of à ma chère Haute Couture, Zurich's one and only couturière. Unfortunately, the program can't be viewed anymore online, but it was pretty spectacular. From what she said then, they were looking at housing this amazing collection in a historical building in Rorschach, and making it accessible to fashion students and professionals for study etc - and maybe even putting it on show for the general public.

Whilst poking around on Facebook recently, I came upon her page and actually found out what has been going on with this collection. First of all, I have unknowingly already posted a few photos of items from this collection on this blog - turns out that the couture items on show at the Textile Museum in St. Gallen last winter came from there - have a look at my original post: http://dollsfashionart.blogspot.ch/2013/12/exhibitions-at-textile-museum-in.html. A new association has been founded to own the collection, called the Swiss Textile Collection, and if you click through their website, you will spot a close-up of the amazing sequinned accessories that I photographed then:

Their goal is still to make the whole thing accessible in some way to people to not just look at the things, but to touch them and see how they're constructed - which is a great idea. The collection offers a membership for CHF 150 a year which also includes interesting visits to textile producers and other acitivities - definitely worth a thought about joining!

What's still written in the stars though is if the collection will really ever be housed at the said building in Rorschach - apparently it's pending a local referendum what actually happens to the building. So the collection is currently housed somewhere very different, at the TMC in Zurich. The TMC is a wholesale center for the fashion industry - companies hire showrooms there to show their new collections to buyers a few times a year. Unless it's an "ordering day", it's closed to the public. As it happens, this month, Mondays are ordering days, and the collection is open for everybody to go and have a look!

Well, of course that's one thing I couldn't let go buy, so my mom and I paid a visit to the collection recently. There were a few items on mannequins that we were free to examine (yes, touch, turn up hems etc.). Most of it is safely stored though in big cardboard boxes, carefully numbered and with a photo of the contents on each box. Stuffed with tissue paper, some things are on hangers, some in boxes on shelves - very well cared for. There were two other visitors beside us, who arrived almost at the same time, and then the action got underway! The lady lookin after things that day pulled things out for us to look at - touch, examine, see how it's made. In short - it was amazing. I've never seen couture like that upclose like this, and I feel like I've learned a ton of things!

The main part of the collection is made up of the collection I mentioned above, but they are also buying other items to add to it. The initial collection was a rich industrialist's wife's wardrobe, ranging in styles ca. from the 1950s to the 1980s from what I could see, and she had them all made at the same couture salon in Zurich, often after designs from Paris coturiers. There's obviously a fair amount of evening wear, but day wear too. She really must have had something made for every special occasion. And there aren't just dresses, she also had matching accessories made - hats, bags, gloves and more.

I couldn't take photos - and wouldn't have anyway, we were much too busy oohing and ahhing and examining things! The lengths they went to! There was a suit of a loosely woven bouclé-type fabric of fairly thick threads. To make a matching vest, they actually unravelled some of this fabric to the threads, and someone knitted the vest from them! Similarly, from another ca. 60s item, they had created a contrasting effect for the top of a dress by taking threads out of a similar kind of fabric and thus creating a kind of lattice-work effect (it was lined of course). Incredible work!

Of the things we were show, there was one utterly amazing item, that had also been on show in St. Gallen, and it was definitely the "star piece" of what we got to see:

The white evening dress and coat where the first things the lady drew out of a storage box for us. The dress is a simple, slim column (and it's owner must have been a tall, slim lady!), a deceptively simple design with slim straps, but... it is completely ebroidered with iridescent pearls and sequins! Yes, completely - the whole dress is covered and incredibly heavy. And this was all done only once the dress had been constructed, this was not an embroidered fabric! The coat is made from the same fabric as the dress and closes with two big round buttons at the front. And of course it shows the dress off to great effect! There was a matching clutch bag as well, that was also embroidered all over. Wow!

It really was a great experience, and we wholly enjoyed it. I will be following this what happens further and hopefully there will be more great stuff to report on!

Exhibition report - Les Années 50 at Palais Galliera

And here comes the next one! This was the exhibition that made me want to go to Paris in the first (as if I needed much of a reason anyway...): Les Années 50 at Palais Galliera.
 
Though the title says "50s", it's actually about the the years from 1947 to 1957, from when Dior created the New Look and with it the silhouette of the 50s. The exhibits are not arranged in a chronological fashion, but like a fashion magazine, by theme. The great thing is, nothing is behind glass, and you can get really up close to a lot of the exhibits, and of some things like the evening dresses, you can also see the back of the dress - which is often just as interesting!
So it starts with the iconic design that today is seen as what started the New Look - Dior's "Bar" suit, together with two other late 40s designs that already show the typical line. One is a delicious redingote coat dress by Jacques Fath, that once belonged to none other than Lily Daché. Wow. After that follows a big line-up of day wear - suits, dresses and coats for all seasons. Some are accompanied by photos of models wearing them, one was worn in a French film... All this is accompanied by old fashion magazine covers that also set the scene, small displays of matchin accessories like hats, gloves, shoes and handbags and there's also a nice display of French sewing patterns of the time. The other rooms show cocktail dresses, grand evening gowns (what a joy - the embroidery work on some of them is just crazy, like the "Palmyre" dress by Dior!), a few items of lingerie (a guepière of course!) and stockings, and casual / beach fashion / swimwear. Most items are Haute Couture, but there are a few mass produced items as well as early Prêt-à-Porter, which also started at the time. So there's plenty to see - give it two hours, even though it isn't big by way of rooms. I am also totally in love now with Fath's designs - they were among my favourites in the exhibition. Also, the wonderfully draped, timeless evening and cocktail dresses by Dessès - just breathtaking.

If you want to get a bit of a look, this little film gives you a good glimpse at the exhibition. There are also some great images on this page, just click on the photo on the right at the bottom.

There is also an excellent book to go with the exibition that is well worth the price. One of the two dresses on the book's cover is shown in Vogue of October 1954, the issue of which I have:

Here it's just shown without the shoulder straps. Gorgeous silver embroidery!

If you go, I recommend to buy the ticket online, you can print it at home. It's set to a specific entry time. That way the can make sure that not too many people get in a the same time. As everything stands free and is mostly not behind glass, it is understandable that they don't want too many people go in at once. And the nice thing is, as high-profile exhibitions go, this is not expensive at all - the admission is only 8 Euros!

Exhibition report: Dries Van Noten - Inspirations at Les Arts Decoratifs

I spent the last weekend in Paris, just for the purpose of seeing two great exhibitions (and yes, to eat some great food as well... :-) ), so it's time to report a bit!

First off: Dries Van Noten - Inspirations at Les Arts Decoratifs. No photos were allowed, as usual, so I can't show you any, but check out this link, there's a quite a few images! I must admit, though I knew the name, I did not have an idea at all about Van Noten's work. But it looked interesting, and after a fellow VFG member had already posted her comments, I decided that it mus be worth it - oh, and how it was! The exhibition shows in themed groups, by what he was inspired for his designs. It was created by him, and he basically went through the museum's collections (just imagine... I think if they'd let me loose in there, they wouldn't get me out again!) to choose what he wanted - it's a similar concept to the excellent Christian Lacroix exhibition of a few years ago, and I think it's a great idea. It let's you see what makes a designer tick, what inspires him. And of course, you get to see so much eye candy. A lot of his own designs, but also the work of other designers, historical fashion, folk fashion, art, paintings, films - all kinds of things. The inspirations were as diverse as they get - Dior's New Look (yes, with the Bar suit), the film "The Piano", a garden of flowers, oriental traditional fashions, Bollywood films, dandies of the 19th century... What stood out for me, that throughout the exhibition, the other designer of whom there were the most fashions shown was Elsa Schiaparelli. Her amazing designs cropped up in many different inspiration themes. The one after her was probably Dior, who featured with classic designs too. There were displays in muted colors and there were true riots of color, like with the garden theme (imagine a display chock full of haute couture evening gowns, with flower embroideries etc. and in all colors you can imagine!). What also struck me, there was a suit that had once belonged to the Duke of Windsor on display. I can only say - boy, he was small - and slender. It would probably fit me...
And what do I think about Dries Van Noten? I may not like all of his designs, but there's a lot to like, and I love how he uses color, and isn't afraid to use bright colors and mix them wildly. It's just a joy to see that. And it's wonderful to see a designer who takes his inspirations from such a variety of things. Be it another designer, a piece of art, a feeling, a film - and in that way, he is an artist as well. 
The exhibition has just been prolonged until November 2nd, so if you get a chance, go see it!

And of course a visit to Paris wouldn't be a visit to Paris if we didn't to a lot of walking around and exploring bits we hadn't seen before. What always amazes me about Paris is the fact, that just by taking a little side lane, you get away from all the tourist hubbub in a minute and end up in a completely quiet, authentic part of the city! This time, we found our way to the "other" side of the Marais - basically between the Rue Saint Antoine and the Seine. It's old, historic, looks like what we think of as a cliché of Paris - but it is just authentically like that! There is also a set of four quiet courtyards, the entrances to which one could easily miss, that have all sorts of little antique shops, art galleries, cafés and more. It's called Le Village Saint Paul.

Just a few images from the other side of the Marais...

 

 The Bibliothèque Fornay - housed in a former bishop's palace from the 15th century.

 Walls of houses leaning in all directions, little lanes...

And a remnant of a 12th century city wall and tower.

Vintage travels

I know - long time no post. Well, I've been away on business quite a bit and occasionally I take holidays too - and the shop wants to be "fed" as well. But anyway, if you're looking for exciting vintage patterns, the good news is, I have recently been listing a load!

I have just listed all of the 60s patterns currently in my stock, which is reflected in my shop's main page. My long business trip took me to wonderful Tasmania for the first time, which I really loved. So much great scenery - and of course, cute critters too!

Wineglass Bay Lookout - Freycinet National Park

Hungry Tassie Devil

But Tasmania is also a great hunting ground for vintage and antiques! And thanks to my wonderful escort, Rosemary, who likes to do a bit of antique hunting herself, we stopped by a few Vinnies, Red Cross and other stores along the way in Swansea and Launceston (and I swear, every bigger town has at least one thrift shop!). In historic Campbell Town we happily trawled a lovely antique shop and the local church's thrift. The result of all of this? Some glorious 60s patterns, all of which are listed now!

So, if you get to go Downunder, make sure you go to Tasmania as well and take your time hunting for some vintage or antiques!

On my way home I also made a very short stopover in Melbourne - just enough to repack my stuff well, have a look in on the excellent National Gallery of Victoria, which I missed the last time, have a coffee and a croissant at a lovely bakery in one of the laneways (now if you're in Melbourne and haven't pottered around these for a bit, then you really haven't been there! Need a guide? These ladies do a fabulous job: Hidden Secrets Tours). And of course I looked in at Circa Vintage, the wonderful shop of fellow VFG member Nicole Jenkins. I visited here shop (still in Fitzroy then) the last time I'd been in Melbourne - and now again. How amazing. It's just wonderful to get to talk to someone about vintage in person for a change, and to look at some of her utterly amazing stock! What I didn't do though, for all of our being caught up talking, looking at stuff etc. - take one photo of us or the shop. I did take a photo though of Mitchell House, where Circal Vintage is located - now isn't that just the perfect setting? I just goggled for a moment, as I walked up there. This is just so fabulous!

 

What I did do though was shop. Yes. Of course! There was just that much space left in my suitcase!

 

This cute 50s cotton gingham blouse and skirt set is by Melbourne maker Merri Maker, and it was unworn. The little loose-fitting blouse is just what I like for hot summer days and it looks great with a pair of black capris. The skirt is ultra-tiny, but since it has a a bit of an A-line shape, I have started working on it to make it fit...

And then, there's this gorgeous dark blue-purble 40s slip with a side zip, that can be perfectly worn on it's own as a dress! It just needed to have the straps taken in a bit. Photos of me wearing it will follow some time.

And if you want more inspiration on wearing vintage and mixing it with modern, I've started an album on my Facebook page where I'll keep uploading photos of me just having some Vintage Fun!